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I don't wear lipstick because I'm never not eating or drinking something, and both habits tend to disrupt lipstick. Similarly, people who kiss–this isn't a problem for me–might be concerned about makeout-induced smears, although I've always thought that marking your territory all over someone's face with lipstick is sort of a boss move.
One instance when leaving behind a trail of lipstick isn't acceptable is on camera. Think about it: Movie kisses are clean. That's because makeup artists often opt for smear-proof pigments, and if a bit of color goes rogue, there's time for clean up between takes.
For the most steadfast lip colors, I caught up with Rebecca Perkins, Law & Order SVU's lead makeup artist, and a co-owner of New York City makeup studio Rouge.
Which lipsticks do you rely on for on-screen kisses, which are sort of rare on 'SVU'?
Certain formulas will always hold up over others through the tough job of a kissing scene. A rich stain, like Tarte Power Pigment and LipSurgence pencils or pretty much any matte from Nars or Face Stockholm.
How important is prep work?
It's very important to remember to blot after applying the color. Blotting pre-kiss retains the pigment but removes the transfer-happy moisture.
Are certain shades and textures more long-lasting than others?
Matte lipstick moves less because it's less emollient; the key factor in what makes things move around. So even if you are afraid of the high maintenance touching-up required for a bolder lip, remember that they tend to last longer so you actually need to touch up less frequently!
What do you always use on set before an on-screen kiss?
The number one thing an actor will do before an on-screen kiss is check their breath/teeth. A good on-set makeup artist always has toothpicks, floss, Altoids, Binaca, gum, and a hand mirror at the ready. It's a glamorous business. As for lipstick, the truth is often they yell 'cut' right after the kiss for the exact purpose of touching up lipstick or wiping it off the non-lipsticked kisser.
How do you clean up smears?
When it is a red, it can be so hard to get off that we use Barbasol Shaving Cream. It's a super-concentrated formula that can remove fake blood stains as well as red lipstick transfers. For most other color lipsticks, we can use a sponge with a bit of creme concealer on it to lift the transferred makeup away. This not only lifts the redness of leftover lipstick pigment, it deposits a bit of correcting tone at the same time.
How did you discover that shaving cream removes lipstick?
It's one of those tricks that you learn pretty early on when you work with a lot of special effects blood which is very stain-y. My background is in special effects, so I just thought if you can use it for fake blood, why not red lipstick red lipstick, too? I worked on an episode of a show that involved a man in a Halloween costume with a full face of blue makeup kissing his ex-girlfriend before deciding to get back together. In between every take she had blue makeup ALL over her face from her nose to her chin. That was a definite three-minute reset in between takes with the assistant director breathing down my neck to hurry up!
